Whenever I travel, I arrive tired but ready to explore. I rarely plan every detail in advance. Instead, I leave room to follow the recommendations I hear along the way.
That was how I discovered one of the best dishes I had eaten in years. When I arrived on Jeju, a volcanic island off the southern coast of South Korea, I already knew what I wanted to try: the island's famous citrus fruit, fresh mackerel and, above all, Jeju Black pork.
Jeju Black pigs have been part of the island's food culture for centuries. Purebred animals are now rare and protected. Breeders have also crossed them with another type of pig to produce Nanchukmatdon pork, which contains more fat and has a richer flavor.
I might never have tasted it if I had not spent an afternoon at Jungmun Cafe. During a coffee tasting, our barista strongly recommended a tiny restaurant called Nogorok. We should order its Jeju Black pork gomtang, she said.
Gomtang is a traditional Korean soup made by slowly cooking meat and bones in water. We had not seen a version made with Jeju Black pork anywhere else on the island, so we decided to try it.
That evening, we found Nogorok glowing on a quiet street in Seogwipo. The restaurant had only 14 seats. Inside, steam rose from large metal bowls as customers quietly ate at the counter.
Nogorok specializes in gomtang. It offers a traditional beef version, but the main attraction is the soup made with Nanchukmatdon pork.
Chef Sung-yong Yang spent months perfecting the dish. He cooks pork legs with local radish, onions, mushrooms and water. The ingredients simmer for four hours before he strains the broth several times. He also mixes two kinds of rice and places the cooked grains at the bottom of each bowl.
Before serving, Yang warms the bowl with hot broth and slices the pork to order. He says this helps preserve the meat's flavor and aroma.
When my bowl arrived, I immediately tasted the broth. It had a deep pork flavor, yet it was surprisingly clear and delicate. Thin slices of meat rested on the rice, while pickled peppers added brightness to each bite. I finished every drop.
Months later, Yang explained the restaurant's name to me. "Nogorok" is a word used on Jeju to describe a feeling of abundance and the pleasure of slowing down. That idea shapes the restaurant itself. It does not advertise on social media, and its owners hope customers will discover it naturally through word of mouth.
That was how we found it: one unplanned coffee stop, one enthusiastic recommendation and one unforgettable bowl of soup. Nogorok still feels like a secret, although perhaps it will not remain one for long.